Dice Theory! A basic introduction

What is it?

Dice theory is about calculating basic probabilities which thus lets you estimate the success and fail rates of model performance, equipment and abilities. This then lets you judge their performance against other models, both your own and the enemies. From there you can use it to help you build army lists, make choices on the battlefield and evaluate results of battles you take part in.

Is it hard?

No. This is fairly basic maths that (with a bit of a reminder) most people can understand pretty easily. Yes if you really want you can take it far further with complex statistics and comparison methods, but for most users the best results are going to be just looking at the basic results. Though if you are keen by all means take it further!

Lets get started!

Note for this discussion the / line is being used to show a fraction not a division sign (although note that to put any fraction into normal numbers you simply treat it as a division, just be sure that you do any division before any multiplication when doing your sums)

The first core concept to understand is how to represent rolling in maths. The Warhammer games are easy in this regard because the random elements introduced by dice rolling are all done on the good old D6 – the six sided dice. Therefore you know that in pretty much all cases the probability of anything happening is going to be out of six.

So lets look at a model – the Daughter of Khaine Witch Aelf. This model has a To Hit value of 3+, which means any roll on a D6 which is a 3 or higher will hit.

A 3+ means that a roll of 3, 4, 5 and 6 on the dice will succeed. So that is a total of 4 possible rolls from a dice with 6 sides. We can write that as 4/6 and can also be divided to give 0.6666 to infinity (it never ends) which can be simplified to 0.67 (which is a perfectly fine level of accuracy for dice theory)

So if one recalls that a half is 1/2 = 0.5 we can see that for a “To Hit” of 3+ a model should be hitting more than half of the time when the dice rolls. It won’t be every time, but its a pretty good success rate.
However landing a hit is only part of an attack, you also have to roll to wound. A Witch Aelf has a To Wound roll of a 4+, so a roll of 4, 5 and 6 will land a wound. That is 3/6, or 0.5 (yes same as 1/2 – a half). Now because to wound depends first on the chance of the model hitting we have to combine the two results.

To Hit – multiplied by – To Wound = Number of wounds scored.

4/6 * 3/6 = 0.33
0.67*0.5 = 0.34 – Note there is a tiny difference here because we used the rounded value instead of the infinite for 4/6. In terms of dice rolling this difference is negligible.

So now you can see that for a single Witch Aelf making a single attack, it has under a half chance of landing a wound each time. In fact doing the maths with the proper values its exactly equal to 1/3.
Now we can take that understanding and improve it further. Lets say we’ve got 10 Witch Aelves in a single unit. They each have 2 attacks, 3+ hit and 4+ wound and deal 1 damage with each hit. Also there is one leader in the group who has a +1 to hit. Let us assume that you get this unit into close combat and that all 10 models are in range of the enemy.

We thus have:
9 models make 2 attacks each with a To Hit of 3+.
1 model making 2 attacks with a To Hit of 2+ (2, 3, 4, 5 and 6)

We can write that as:
The attacks made by the regular models*to hit chance + attacks made by the leader*to hit chance = total attacks
(9*2*4/6) + (1*2*5/6) = 13.67
12 + 1.67 = 13.67

So from 10 Witch Aelves we can estimate that they will make 13.67 attacks. From there we can work out how many times they will wound from those attacks. Because they all wound on the same 4+ score this is even easier and is simply

Number of attacks*to hit chance = number of wounds
13.67*3/6 = 6.83

So from 10 Witch Aelves you can expect to make 6.83 wounds (which you could round up to 7 if you wish). As 10 Witch aelves make 20 attacks total we can see that it matches our earlier maths of  being around 1/3rd of the attacks

1/3*20 = 6.67

The leaders bonus makes a little difference, but not a huge amount in this comparison, but likely pushes it closer to a full 7.

 

Now in this test these Aelves were not attacking anything, but if we give them an opponent – say a nasty Deamonette of Slaanesh – we can see how things might fare.

A Deamonette has a basic save of 5+ (works on a 5 and 6), and we are making a (rounded up) 7 attacks against them. So that would be:

Number of wounds*save chance
7*2/6 = 2.3

So we can expect them to make around 2 saves, which would mean they’d lose 5 hit points; which as each Deamonette has only 1 wound, means they would lose 5 models.

In practical terms we now know that if we take our unit of 10 Witch Aelves and attack a unit of 30 Deamonettes, we are only going to have a chance to kill around 5 of them in any one turn of combat, which is not that many from such a large unit. In contrast, if we were to charge a unit of 10 Deamonettes we could expect to take out around half the unit!

 

Whilst experience on the tabletop can also teach these very same lessons, a little bit of maths theory can let you better understand these concepts in less complicated manner.
Furthermore its not beholden to wild-chance that real dice will give; for example you could attack 30 Deamonettes with your 10 Witch Aelves and kill 15 of them with some really super lucky dice rolls for you and some bad saving from your opponent. An experience like that might make you think your Witch Aelves are superpowered and thus charge them into Deamonettes (and other similar units) like that again, only to get crushed when you kill a more “normal” number of 5 and they make a far superior return attack.
It can also help a lot when you want to compare things, such as different unit types or weapon choices on the same unit. You can test out what the wounds will likely be, but also see how different special effects might or might not become more critical to the importance of a unit The next article covers this in more detail by comparing the Witch Aelves with duel blades and Witch Aelves with bucklers.

Remember Dice Theory is not replacing gameplay and actual experience. It makes assumptions about the game situation and often you might compare things at the extreme ends (eg comparing 10 witch aelves and 30 witch aelves) to see the patterns or differences in the units. Furthermore its not taking into account positioning, range, cover etc…All essential gameplay elements that contribute to an overall success. Indeed in this test we’ve assumed that you’d get all 10 models in the unit into close combat – in a real game you might lose several on the way and might also not be able to move all of them into position to attack. However if you know that about 1/3rd of your hits are going to cause wounds and most of those will kill you can at least plan with that in mind accordingly.

Warhammer Fantasy (classic) Black Library listings

What follows is as comprehensive a list of the publication by Black Library as they are currently listed on their website. The intention being to make it easier for people to see what series follow what and to get a foot in the door in reading some of the great classic literature made for the world of Warhammer.

Be aware that the entire BL listings are also on Amazon Kindle as well so if you use a Kindle e-reader it would be best to search and get them from Amazon rather than direct from BL – if you are purchasing ebooks.

List accurate to 13/11/2020

Warhammer Chronicles (Classic)

Note:

1) GW appears to be republishing some of these stories (in print and ebook format) in collected editions of series (and short stories). As a result some series presented here as individual listings might, at some point in the future, be released in a collected edition. Bare this in mind when purchasing; however there is no guarantee that any series will get collected together.

2) I have no idea as to time-lines with these. I have broadly kept the listings as they are shown on the Black Library website which roughly has the newest at the top and the oldest at the bottom.

3) I have split the listings into three groups for Novels; Collected editions (both collected books and short stories), multi-book series and stand alone books.  Unlike the AoS page, if an individual book is part of a collected edition I only list the collected edition (which does show all books/short stories contained within on its listing). This is purely to make the listings easier to read for new people without having to keep cross referencing different lists.

I’ve also done it on the expectation that most consulting this will be newer to the lore and setting and thus are likely making fresh purchases; where most collected editions prove to be the significantly cheaper choice.

Collected Editions

  • Mathias Thulmann: Witch Hunter (Witch Hunter, Witch, Finder, Witch Killer)
  • The War of Vengeance (The Great Betrayal, Master of Dragons, The Curse of the Pheoenix Crown)
  • Champions Of Chaos (Sigvald by Darius Hinks,Valkia the Bloody, Bloodraven, Blood Blessing, Reaper, Harbinger, Van Horstmann)
  • Ulrika the Vampire: The Omnibus (Bloodborn, Bloodforged, Bloodsworn)
  • The Sundering (Malekith, Shadow King, Caledor)
  • Vampire Wars: The von Carstein Trilogy (Inheritance, Dominion, Retribution)
  • The Rise of Nagash (Nagash the Sorcerer, Nagash the Unbroken, Nagash Immortal)
  • The Legend of Sigmar (Heldenhammer, Empire, God-King, Let the Great Axe Fall, Gods of Flesh and Blood, Sword Guardian)
  • The Black Plague (Now in a collected book lower down this list with others – Skaven Wars) (Dead Winter, Blighted Empire, Wolf of Sigmar)
  • Warhammer: The End Times Collection (The Return of Nagash, The Fall of Altdorf, The Curse of Khaine, The Rise of the Horned Rat, The Lord of the End Times)
  • Death of the Old World (The Rise of the Horned Rat, The Lord of the End Times) – Content Mirrored in End Times collection
  • The Empire (Grimblades,Iron Company, Warrior Priest, The Miracle at Berlau, As Dead as Flesh, Dead Man’s Hand, Sanctity, The Judgement of Crows, The March of Doom)
  • Swords of the Empire (short story collection – Duty and Honour; and others)
  • Way of the Dead(What Price Vengeance, Three Knights, The Small Ones, The Road to Damnation, Mark of the Beast, Jahama’s Lesson, Head Hunting, Glow, A Good Thief)
  • Age of Legend (A Small Victory, Bloodraven, City of Dead Jewels, The Last Charge, The Ninth Book, The Gods Demand, Plague Doktor*, The City is Theirs, The Second Sun, Aenarion)
  • Death & Dishonour (Red Snow, The Assassin’s Dilemma, Rest Eternal, The Miracle at Berlau, Noblesse Oblige, The Last Ride of Heiner Rothstein, Broken Blood, The Judgement of Crows, Wolfshead)
  • Masters of Steel and Stone (Grudge Bearer, Oathbreaker, Honourkeeper, The Doom of Dragonback, Ancestral Grudge, City of Dead Jewels)
  • Tyrion and Teclis Omnibus (Blood of Aenarion, Sword of Caledor, Bane of Malekith)
  • Warriors of the Chaos Wastes Omnibus (Wulfrik, Blood for the Blood God, Palace of the Plague Lord)
  • Knights of the Empire (Hammers of Ulric, Reiksguard, Knight of the Blazing Sun, Dead Calm, Stromfel’s Teeth, Lords of the Marsh, Dead Man’s Party, Bernheimer’s Gun)
  • Warlords of Karak Eight Peaks (Skarsnik, Headtaker, Thorgrim, The Karag, Durak Grudge, The King of Black Crag)
  • Skaven Wars: The Black Plague (Dead Winter, Blighted Empire, Wolf of Sigmar, Plague Priest, Plague Doktor, A Question of Faith, The Last Man)
  • The Orion Trilogy (The Vaults of Winter, Tears of Isha, The Council of Beasts)
  • Brunner The Bounty Hunter (Blood Money, Blood and Steel, Blood of the Dragon)
  • Thanquol & Boneripper (Grey Seer, Temple of the Serpent, Thanquol’s Doom, Mind-Stealer, Thanquol Triumphant)
  • Heroes of the Empire (Sword of Justice, Sword of Vengeance, Luthor Huss, Feast of Horrors, Duty and Honour, The March of Doom)
  • The Elves: Omnibus (Kinstrife, Defenders of Ulthuan, Sons of Ellyrion, Deathmasque, Guardians of the Forest, Freedom’s Home or Glory’s Grave)
  • Undeath Ascendant: A Vampire Counts Omnibus (The Red Duke, Ancient Blood, Curse of the Necrarch, Portrait of My Undying Lady, The Vampire Hunters, Three Knights)
  • Knights of Bretonnia (Knight Errant, Knight of the Realm, Rest Eternal, Questing Knight, Grail Knight)

Individual Series

  • Gilead Lothain:
    1 Gilead’s Blood (unlisted short story collection)
    2 Gilead’s Curse
  • Archaon duology:
    1 Archaon: Everchosen
    2 Archaon: Lord of Chaos
  • The Blood of Nagash:
    1 Neferata
    2 Master of Death
  • Slaves to Darkness:
    1 The Claws of Chaos
    2 The Blades of Chaos
    3 The Heart of Chaos
  • Ambassador Chronicles:
    1 The Ambassador
    2 Ursun’s Teeth
  • Storm of Magic:
    The Hour of Shadows
    Dragonmage
    Razumov’s Tomb
  • The Adventures of Florin and Lorenzo:
    1 The Burning Shore
    1.5 Haute Cuisine
    2 Wild Kingdoms
    3 Savage City

Stand Alone books

Graphic Novels; (comics)

  • Condemned by Fire
  • Crown of Destruction
  • Forge of War

Novels:

  • Sigmar’s Blood (Prequel story to the End Times series)
  • The Bloody-Handed (includes illustrations!)
  • Forged in Battle
  • Magestorm
  • Fell Cargo
  • Dreadfleet
  • The Dead and the Damned
  • Forged by Chaos
  • Call To Arms
  • The Hour of Shadows
  • Dark Storm Gathering
  • Broken Honour
  • Riders of the Dead

Gotrek and Felix series

  • Gotrek and Felix The First Omnibus (Trollslayer, Skavenslayer, Daemonslayer, Death and Glory, A Place of Quiet Assembly, Blood Sport, Kineater, Mind-Stealer)
  • Gotrek and Felix The Second Omnibus (Dragonslayer, Beastslayer, Vampireslayer, The Tilean’s Talisman, Lord of Undeath, The Two Crowns of Ras Karim, Prophecy, A Cask of Wynters)
  • Gotrek and Felix The Third Omnibus (Giantslayer, Redhand’s Daughter, Orcslayer, Manslayer, The Oberwald Ripper, Red Snow, Last Orders)
  • Gotrek and Felix The Fourth Omnibus (Elfslayer, Shamanslayer, Zombieslayer, Slayer of the Storm God, Slayer’s Honour, The Funeral of Gotrek Gurnisson)
  • Gotrek and Felix The Fifth Omnibus (Road of Skulls, The Serpent Queen, Charnel Congress, Marriage of Moment, Berthold’s Beard, The Reckoning, The Contest, Into the Valley of Death, Curse of the Everliving)
  • Gotrek & Felix: The Sixth Omnibus (City of the Damned, Kinslayer, Slayer, Rememberers)
  • Gotrek and Felix: The Anthology – note all stories part of the Omnibus editions above (1-4)
    (Slayer’s Honour, A Cask of Wynters, A Place of Quiet Assembly, Kineater, Prophecy, The Tilean’s Talismn, Last Orders, Mind-stealer, The Two Crowns of Ras Karim, The Funeral of Gotrek Gurnisson)
  • Gotrek & Felix: Lost Tales – note all stories part of the Omnibus edition 5 (Charnel Congress, The Reckoning, Into the Valley of Death, Curse of the Everliving)
  • Gotrek & Felix: Myths and Legends – Death and Glory and Lord of Undeath in Omnibus editions above (1-2) (Death and Glory!, Lord of Undeath, The Lost Kinsmen)

Core Series:

  1. Troll Slayer (Gotrek and Felix Omnibus 1)
  2. Skaven Slayer (Gotrek and Felix Omnibus 1)
  3. Daemonslayer (Gotrek and Felix Omnibus 1)
  4. Dragonslayer (Gotrek and Felix Omnibus 2)
  5. Beastslayer (Gotrek and Felix Omnibus 2)
  6. Vampireslayer (Gotrek and Felix Omnibus 2)
  7. Giantslayer (Gotrek and Felix Omnibus 3)
  8. Orcslayer (Gotrek and Felix Omnibus 3)
  9. Manslayer (Gotrek and Felix Omnibus 3)
  10. Elfslayer (Gotrek and Felix Omnibus 4)
  11. Shamanslayer (Gotrek and Felix Omnibus 4)
  12. Zombieslayer (Gotrek and Felix Omnibus 4)

End of Series:

  1. 1 Kinslayer (Gotrek and Felix Omnibus 6)
  2. Rememberers (short story) (Gotrek and Felix Omnibus 6)
  3. 2 Slayer (Gotrek and Felix Omnibus 6)

Stand Alone Adventures:

  • City of the Damned (Gotrek and Felix Omnibus 6)
  • Berthold’s Beard (Gotrek and Felix Omnibus 5)
  • The Serpent Queen (Gotrek and Felix Omnibus 5)
  • Road of Skulls (Gotrek and Felix Omnibus 5)
  • Marriage of Moment (Gotrek and Felix Omnibus 5)
  • The Contest (Gotrek and Felix Omnibus 5)
  • Into the Valley of Death (Gotrek & Felix: Lost Tales, Gotrek and Felix Omnibus 5)
  • Charnel Congress (Gotrek & Felix: Lost Tales, Gotrek and Felix Omnibus 5)
  • The Reckoning (Gotrek & Felix: Lost Tales, Gotrek and Felix Omnibus 5)

Warhammer Horror
Genevieve series

Collected Editions:

  • The Vampire Genevieve (Drachenfels, Genevieve Undead, Beasts in Velvet, Silver Nails)

Individual Novels:

  • Drachenfels
  • Genevieve Undead (Stage Blood, The Cold Stark House, Unicorn Ivory)
  • Beasts in Velvet
  • Silver Nails (Red Thirst, The Ibby the Fish Factor)

Darkblade Collected series

Darkblade: eBook Bundle (all bar Bloodwalker)

The Chronicles of Malus Darkblade: Volume One (The Blood Price, The Daemon’s Curse, Bloodstorm, Reaper of Souls)

Series:

  1. The Daemon’s Curse (The Chronicles of Malus Darkblade: Volume One)
  2. Bloodstorm (The Chronicles of Malus Darkblade: Volume One)
  3. Reaper of Souls (The Chronicles of Malus Darkblade: Volume One)
  4. Warpsword
  5. Lord of Ruin
  6. Deathblade

Standalone adventure:

  • Bloodwalker

Short stories

Remember these are the ones that are NOT expressly mentioned as being included in collected editions earlier mentioned. The Black Library website will show many more.

  • The End Times:
  1. The Siege of Naggarond (Prequel to “The Curse of Khaine”)
  2. Bride of Khaine (Prequel to “Curse of Khaine and Deathblade”)
  3. Marienburg’s Stand (Prequel to “The Fall of Altdorf”)
  4. With Ice and Sword
  5. The Bone Cage (Set between “Sigmar’s Blood” and “The Return of Nagash”)
  • Golgfag Maneater stories:
  1. Golgfag’s Revenge
  2. The Battle Of Whitestone
  • Ghoul King:
  1. Conqueror of Worms
  2. Empire of Maggots
  • The Golden Idol:
  1. Tomb of The Golden Idol: Part 1
  2. Tomb of The Golden Idol: Part 2
  • The Great Maw
  • Bernheimer’s Gun
  • Sticks and Stones
  • Wind of Change
  • Cold Light of Day
  • Unseen
  • Picking the Bones
  • The Master of Mourkain (Ties into “Blood of Nagash” series)
  • Like Father, Like Son
  • The Last Little Bit
  • Voyage of the Sunspear
  • Never Forgive
  • The Riddle of Scorpions
  • Sword Guardian
  • Gilead’s Craft
  • Voices (features Queek!)
  • Cankerworm

Blood Angels of Khaine – a conversion

So Daughters of Khaine are my focus right now and the range of new models released by Games Workshop are fantastic. However whilst scouting around the net I happened upon this conversion to the Khinerai

An idea I found very attractive and interesting and decided to adapt for myself, though my intent is to use the feather wings only upon the leaders (Shryke and Harridynn)to further highlight them from the rest of the unit and to show how special and mighty they are as warriors.

And along the way I figured I’d show you how I did this conversion!

Equipment you need:

1) Box of Khinerai. Remembering that the way these kits are assembled has fixed parts going to specific bodies. So you want to turn the manual that comes with them to the latter pages where they make the last khinerai which is the leader unit for the pack. Note that an error means that the weapon arm number isn’t shown on either one (though I assume that as they are last shown GW staff assumed you’d made the rest and thus it was the only blade/javelin remaining)

2) A set of Dark Eldar/Drukhari Scourge wings of the feathered variety. These are not too hard to find if you search bits stores or ebay.

3) Standard modelling tools for assembly.
Myself I used the following tools

a) A pair of clippers to remove parts from the sprue.
b) Plastic glue
c) A GW scalpel blade
d) A file – mine is a small 900 grit half round diamond file. This is a very fine file (like the emery boards that GW makes) that is fantastic to use. Hard to find in a high grit like this, but I got mine from here (no affiliation):

Eternal Tools:
https://www.eternaltools.com/files-burnishers/small-diamond-files
Their product video is worth a watch :

Methodology:

1) Assemble the Khinerai model as normal (optional leave head off). This is an important step because the way the wings are both attached to the core of the body involves them having huge chunks of the body upon them; including the arms. So you’ve got to attach the wings as normal to give you the body to work with.
I also find its important to attach the weapon arms and tail as well so that when you add the new wings they will fit around the rest of the model.
The head I put on with a small bit of white-tac (same as blue-tac just white) as I wanted to have the head separate from the main body to make painting a bit easier.
Remember to follow the parts guide in the manual that comes with the Khinerai. Also note that you should remove all mould lines prior to affixing parts together.

2) Once the glue is fully dry, remove the wings at the shoulders. This is a bit of careful cutting with the cutting blades. Take your time and remember if you’re not sure take off less rather than more, by taking off less you can file/scrape down to a smoother surface.

This shows a rough position for where I placed my cuts onto the model

Once I’d removed the wings I then used the scalpel blade to scrape and the file to smooth over the surface areas to give a nice easy to work with surface.

3) With the old wings removed its time to attach the new ones. Remember to clean off any mould lines from the feather wings before affixing. Also if you’ve done as I have with the head (not attached) remember to use some blue-tac or similar product (a bit of greenstuff would work too in the short term) to hold the head in place on the neck when affixing the wings to ensure that the long hair doesn’t get in the way.
Note that in my experience the horned helm with the interlocked antlers requires the most space. Though if you find you can’t easily fit the wing with this head you can just another head (the wings will already be denoting this as your leader unit so the helm has less importance).

The wing that goes onto the weapon shoulder I affix as normal without any modification. The wing that goes onto the larger shoulder with the buckler I did scrap (retaining the curve) some of the smooth surface of the wing off. This is so that the wing and feathers sit closer to the shoulder surface. I found this helped as this side of the model the shoulder is pushed out far more so, so the wing doesn’t want to be standing raised.

IMPORTANT. Because there’s no socket on the model the plastic glue will take longer to get a decent bond before you can let go. So be prepared to hold the model and wing in place firmly for at least 5-10 mins for each wing. When released release slowly and carefully as even after that time the plastic glue might not be fully cured. Long as the model and wing remain still the glue will set strong.

TIP – dry fit the wing to the model and hold it in place for a bit. This lets you practice how you are going to hold the model when you apply the glue, since there are a lot of delicate parts on these models and its a lot easier to practice without the glue getting in the way.

The final result!

And there you have it, the completed conversion with new feather wings! Note that I might use a tiny bit of greenstuff later on these just to smooth and create a better join area around the wings. This is purely optional and might not really be needed either, but do keep it in mind as an option.

Recent Developments and News

So thought it was about time to collect ones thoughts and do a little army and life update to the blog since a fair bit has happened since the last update. F

First up had a visit and an interview at GW in Nottingham for the position of a product photographer. Sadly I didn’t get the job (though in all fairness to GW they were very good in communicating through the whole process, none of that contact you and then giving one the silent treatment). This did mean that I also got to have a peek around their Warhammer World setup – the studio upstairs is great and seeing the models in the flesh painted is a joy. A large amount are the regular models (most of which you’ve likely seen in White Dwarf and on the front of the boxes) though there are a few conversions thrown in as well. The centre is dominated by a huge assault of Tyranids on a Space Marine Citital and really shows off what the GW staff can do when they want to make something big and impressive to show off. I’ll try and get a few pictures to show up later (hint its dark in there and the combo of small spotlights and glass makes lighting a nightmare).

Back to home base and the Slaanesh army has been growing more in a mound of unfinished models than anything else. Ebay has been pruned regular for fiends and hounds (the former of which are proving rather scarce in the UK at present – at least in metal form) and as I type I’m sitting on a bid and crossing fingers for a Lord of Change in metal. So most of the growth has been in adding more models and finding those few good deals on ebay to bolster the numbers.

My aim at present is to get much of the bulk of metal models as I can, which is mostly Slaanesh Fiends and Hounds of Khorne along with any lords or heros or daemons as well. Mostly to avoid having to work with Finecast, which whilst showing details fantastically can be so iffy with details showing (my Fateweaver is awaiting me taking a few photos to show missing detail to get one wing replaced from GW). I’ve also been gathering up the Seekers I can find in metal and will likely run two units, one plastic (they are good models in plastic) and one in metal, the metal seekers going with my metal seeker herald for a special group on the table.

I’ve thus far avoided the temptation of the metal Daemonettes, great models that they are, but at present I’m more keen to bulk the army up to a good size than to really sink a lot of money into them, I might build up a nice group of 30 or so for a special squad in time, but its low on the priorities at present (which of course means that there are loads on ebay  – thankfully also at higher prices so I’m not tempted).

Other News

Drake the Dragon Wargame – updates have gone out on the Kickstarter and they are entering the final stages of packing ready to ship. A future update is expected in the next few days with a video as well as more specific details. In addition they’ve announced that shipments will be split into two with AGM taking the cost of the second round of packaging (ergo no increased cost to backers). This is because the Rule book (printed offsite) and a few other items are taking longer than expected to complete. AGM is also packing quickstart sheets with the first round of shipments so that players who assemble faster than others can get a start before the final shipment. Final shipment is expected a to ship a month or so after the first so barring customs slowing things up Backers should have all their dragons before Christmas.

Any in Vancouver are also able to drop in for a launch party being held – details to follow shortly (check the KS updates page).

http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/agm/drake-the-dragon-wargame/posts

Spartan Games – Firestorm Armada – lots of great stuff with free Battle stations for the core factions for any ordering the new 2.0 rule book (which was developed with aid of the community). In addition new Patrol Fleets are coming out with MII versions of the core ships – new battleships, cruisers and frigates are coming along with brand new flyer tokens for fighters and bombers and also new ships in the form of some new super carriers. They are also releasing a 2 player battle pack for Firestorm, with rumour of a few more battle packs with other core factions in the future. All details and more appearing in the Spartan Blog and also on the Spartan Facebook page.

Spartan Games – Uncharted Seas – Sky Pirates are out on November 5th – get ready for a brand new fleet in the Uncharted waters of the fantasy world.

http://www.spartangames.co.uk/blog

Paint Stripping Metal Miniatures

Paint Stripping

So along with the ebay purchases sometimes one ends up having to get things painted because virgin unpainted models are a rarer thing to come by. This has been my first trip into paint stripping as in the past I was always happy to purchase new models and thankfully the process is very simple with metal.

What you need:

Dettol — my paint stripping chemical of choice in the UK; if you look around you’ll find there’s a variety of other brands or chemicals you can use instead of

2 Worn Toothbrushes

Jam jars or similar small containers

2 Small Trays or bowls

1 Pair of rubber washing gloves

Pack of tooth picks

Scalpel or similar pointed tip blade

1 bowl of warm soapy water

Method:

1) Prep the models for stripping. Remove any base from the models if that base has flock or other small debris material upon it. Stripping chemicals will weaken glue bonds and the last thing you want is your models covered in little bits and flecks. At this stage I also test the bonds on the joints, applying a little force to see if any break (not so much that you bend the metal). This is just to help packing the most amount of metal into the smallest container as that means you won’t have to use as much chemical to cover them.

2) Put the models into the container and give them a little shake; you’re trying here to settle the models into the lowest profile possible so that you can use the least amount of Dettol. Once settled pour the Dettol in until they are covered.

3) Leave for at least 24 hours in a well ventilated area (ideally in a shed or somewhere out of the way). You can sometimes cut down and leave them for less time if you’re rushed, but personally I’d say always leave as long as you possibly can. You can even leave them in for a few days or weeks, the longer the better in general as that weakens the paint up and helps to get into all the little cracks.

4) Once they’ve sat for a while the paint will appear to rise up on the metal and the liquid will become more cloudy. Bring the models over and tip the contents gently into one of the trays. (remember to wear the rubber gloves at this stage)

5) With the other tray fill it partly with clean Dettol, this is now your rinsing bowl.

6) Take the worn toothbrush (a different one to the one you use to clean resin model if you happen to) and begin to scrub the models clean, the paint should come off without much trouble. Be careful around any joints as they might break very easily now and you don’t want to drop and lose bits. Where needed also use the tooth picks and the scalpel blade to just pick out any black specks of paint in any recesses of the model that resist the scrubbing. Chances are you won’t get them all out 100%, but a long soak time and using all the tools and you should get all but the worst out. The tooth picks work well to start, but the tips will go blunt from the Dettol and wet environment, which means you’ll go through a few when cleaning; the blade is there only as a final tool for getting the worst out.

During the process I also like to dip the toothbrush into the rinsing Dettol so that you’re working with clean Dettol on the model itself.

7) Once cleaned and scrubbed leave to drip mostly dry to one side and then rinse in the rinsing Dettol; use the cleaning tools again if needed and then leave to dry again. You can use kitchen roll to help wipe the worst of the Dettol off to speed things up here.

8) Once fully cleaned and dry only then come in and wash the models with warm lightly soapy water and the other worn toothbrush (just like you would for Resin models). You only want to do this as the last stage because any contact with water where there is still Dettol on the model will cause it to become sticky and then a nightmare to wash off.

Note Dettol won’t harm you if you get it on your fingers, but it will dry them out. Working with rubber gloves is strongly advised, but note chances are if you’re working with anything that has spikes you might get tears or rips in them (so don’t use your best gloves).

Once done you’ll now have a shiny new series of models ready to assemble and paint up. Note check for mold lines and treat them much the same as you would a brand new model; you’ll be amazed how many people don’t clean off mold lines from the models they own. You will also find that there is often dried glue in the joints where they’ve become separated – use a sharp blade (scalpel) to scrape the glue off then score the joint ready for re-glueing.

 

 

FAQ:

1) Is Dettol harmful?

It’s a concentrated antiseptic so on your hands it shouldn’t have any problems. Clearly avoid eye contact and do not drink. A note is that the bottle also recommends not using around cats.

2) What happens if I leave the models in the solution for a very long period of time?

The solution might go tacky/thick but otherwise with metal models there won’t be any harm done. Simply let as much drip off as possible and then rinse as normal in more Dettol (do no use water). Note try to avoid leaving in areas where you’ll get strong condensation as the water from that might enter the solution and increase the tackyness/goopyness.

3) Can I use this for resin or plastic models?

Far as I can find yes you can, I’ve not done it myself with either and I would check before trying. Also remember that there are various formula’s for plastics and resins and that as a result you might damage your models if they are made of a certain kind. Ask around and see if anyone else has tried and what worked for them

4) What can I do if I get a lot of tacky residue that is hard to shift?

I’ve read (but not tried) that you can use methylated spirits to clean the model. Just use it to rinse the model off instead of the Dettol.

Source – http://thepaintingbunker.com/2013/04/23/how-to-strip-paint-off-resin-models/

 

 

 

Small steps first day

So new blog new project and right now that project is a Slaanesh army which is likely to dominate these early postings as I get some self motivation to put the army together and learn to paint it up (and I will paint this army – I will I really really will – – – – – well I’ll undercoat it at least!)

 

So thus far the collection page shows all that’s in the Slaanesh force and should remain up to date if I can keep off ebay and nabbing neat older sculpts and metal models here and there. Even in the smaller (than the USA) market of UK ebay there is a surprising amount out there if you look around and wait; even a lot of older unpainted and unassembled models (though it seems that the older 2boobied daemonettes are hard to come by :P). I am, however, most glad that I got hold of 5 of the older seeker riders which along with my mounted herald will be a nice little troop of unique models in the force. I’m also generally keeping an eye out for more of those older seeker riders – I’ll probably end up with quite a few to put on the table (full seeker cavalry charge!).

 

So project objectives for the moment are:

1) Assemble everything – cleaning models (even GW plastic which is the most easy thing to clean there is) takes forever. I’ll also have to leave some models in parts until they are painted because of getting access to details – the Bloodthrone/Skull Cannon is a nightmare of parts that cover other parts and most of the engine and wheel sections will have to be done on their own.

Riders for the seekers and for the bloodcrushers are also going to be done in parts along with the seekers and riders for the chariots.

2) Get some movement trays and modify them – with some greenstuff and work I can modify the movement trays to hold the circular based models so I can use them in 40K or fantasy. I might use magnets as well, some small flat ones to just slip under the base. If I do I’ll also go for a metal sheet over or for the movement tray or be really careful with the magnet positions otherwise.

3) Conversions – thus far I’ve got a herald on a mount to convert (based around the slaanesh warriors of chaos commander rider) – a khorne herald (from the blood throne which isn’t being used – honestly I can’t understand why GW didn’t make him optional on his own as they’ve done with some other kits).

I’m also toying with the idea of going over all (30 at present) deamonettes and adjusting their chests to be more “balanced”. It’s my view that you can’t be an elite death dealing monster with such inbalance upon one’s chest (which means I have to make lots of boobies and armour for the boobies).